It can be tricky to get an excellent first layer with PETG. It is prone to warping, and to avoid any print failures; you need to ensure that the first layer adheres to the bed flawlessly. A heated bed will help to minimize the temperature gradients and help PETG stick to the bed. If you’re using a glass bed surface, you can apply a thin layer of PVA glue stick or hairspray to achieve optimum first layer adhesion. Alternatively, you can also stick the Blue painters’ tape on the glass print bed. 

PETG is a sticky material and can cause issues related to retraction stringing. If you have incorrect settings, you’ll result in strings of filament all over your model. These affect the print quality and add an extra step in the post-processing stage. To prevent this, you need to calibrate and dial in your retraction settings. You can use the retraction settings for your particular roll of PETG filament. 

If you print PETG at a high temperature, you might notice blobs or zits on your print’s surface, resulting in a poor surface finish and affecting your print quality. A high melting temperature will result in the PETG oozing out of the nozzle, leading to issues in print. A temperature tower will help you calibrate your extruder temperature and resolve any problems due to a high or low melting temperature. 

PETG layers have excellent self-adhesion. While it might be nice in the case of the actual model, its self-adhesion might lead to specific issues in the case of the supports. The PETG might get stuck to the model, resulting in difficulties while removing the support material. You might find bits and pieces of support on the print and an unclean support interface. It is essential to tune the supports and adjust the ‘Z-height gap” setting. The settings should be such that the model’s support structure is easily detachable with minimal overhangs.